I was invited to try the Gilbert Scott, a new London restaurant from Marcus Wareing housed in the glorious St Pancras station. It was a treat just to visit place and have a peek at the adjoining Renaissance hotel – it’s breathtakingly grand, although sadly we couldn’t nose much as most of it is ‘for guests only’ and prowled by security. Instead we were ushered into the bar for a pre-dinner cocktail.
The bar is so decadent and ornate, you feel like you’ve stepped back to the Twenties. The cocktails are not the typical offerings – I had a concoction of green tea, ginger and lemon, with some smoked popcorn to nibble.
The dining room is equally grand, but comfortable and cosy. I’d describe the menu as refined comfort food – fish and chips, artichoke tart, sides of mash and homemade baked beans, that kind of thing. Vegetarians are very well catered for with several options for each course and a host of side dishes.
I found it tough to choose what to have, but went for courgette flower and tomatoes to start. The tomatoes were fresh and full of flavour but I wish the flower had been filled with some kind of cheese – those things beg to be stuffed!
For main, Josh had lamb neck with broad beans, asparagus and a rich sauce. I went for mushroom cobbler which was extremely flavoursome, rich and creamy, topped with melting cheese-infused pastry discs. Yorkshire puddings were a hit but the kale was gritty – big no no.
Prices at the Gilbert Scott are high (£16-20 for mains) but I think the wonderful setting, generous portions and charming service justifies them. I’d love to go back to the bar for a cocktail or afternoon tea!
I was a guest of the Gilbert Scott for my visit