I apologise for it being blogger-perk frenzy round here at the moment. I’ve had a good run lately! The latest was the chance to try the tasting menu with matching wine selection at Michelin-starred restaurant L’Atelier Joel Robuchon, on the borders of Covent Garden and Soho, where a new executive chef (Xavier Boyer) and pastry chef (Francois Delaire) have just been appointed.
We started by going up the first floor for a delicious cocktail in the plushy bar. There’s a lovely terrace which on this warm evening was full.
Downstairs, we were seated at the central bar with a view directly into the working kitchen. Quite uniquely for a Michelin restaurant, the food is informally served by the bar staff/waiters, as was the wine for each course. I really liked this less stuffy approach and our waiters were relaxed and funny – a nice change from formal fine dining.
In what must be a first, L’Atelier Joel Robuchon is a Michelin-starred French restaurant with a vegetarian tasting menu. Gosh, I do love the treat of seeing a list of delicious-sounding food where I can eat all of it!
Each course was beautifully dainty and almost too pretty to eat. It was a real ode to the humble and lovely vegetable, whether a mushroom whipped into a silky veloute or an heirloom tomato simply dressed and served zingily red in a martini glass with pickles and flowers.
Asparagus with comte; a beautiful girolle and truffle risotto; crisped glazed tofu with wild mushrooms. It was all perfectly pitched and a delight to eat. Unlike some tasting menus, the pacing and portion size were spot on: it never felt like an onslaught and I didn’t feel uncomfortably full at the end.
Josh went for the omnivore tasting menu; he declared the ox cheek gyoza to be a particular standout dish. Personally I loved the blingy gold toast rack and gilt leaf on the caviar and salmon starter.
As a special side we were given some of the infamous Robuchon pommes puree, made with 50% butter to 50% potato. Jeez, I could feel my arteries furring up as I ate it but it is just so good I didn’t care.
The dainty portions meant we had space for dessert, hurrah. Josh’s was a beautiful physics-defying orb of shiny gold, with a delicate citrus mousse inside.
I had an equally gorgeous concoction; light as air milk chocolate mousse with bitter dark chocolate sorbet and Oreo crumbs.
Each course was matched with the sommelier’s selection of wine, and wow – they were all utterly amazing. I don’t know much about wine at all, but I loved how our choices featured some really unusual ones with tasting notes like smoke, mushroom, cellar, and minerals. Even the dessert wine which I don’t usually drink was a sweet, light red that was perfect with the chocolate.
This was one of the most enjoyable fine dining experiences I’ve had; partly for the superb food and partly for the unique relaxed ambiance and friendly service. For a special occasion meal I would certainly go back.
I was a guest of L’Atelier Joel Robuchon for my dinner; views my own.
Comments (5)
Anne
May 29th 2014 at 1:04 am
Wow this looks amazing, gorgeous food! I really struggle eating out a vegetarian at more upmarket places, or sometimes when they do they vegetarian things just don’t really match up to their carnivore menu. It looks delicious and the place looks like it has a lovely atmosphere as well xx
Charlotte
May 29th 2014 at 1:07 pm
OMG. That looks amazing. Posh + French + Veggie = a rare fine thing. I must go immediately!
Rosie
May 29th 2014 at 5:11 pm
This looks really nice, and great that there’s a good veggie place I can visit, and then recommend, as there’s a bit of a lack of them in London!!
Rosie xx
Johanna
June 1st 2014 at 10:57 am
This looks incredible! I’d absolutely love to go, but not sure I can justify spending that sort of money at the moment… Have you been to Vanilla Black and The Gate? They’re two of my vegetarian favourites :)
Katie
June 2nd 2014 at 11:44 am
I have, Vanilla Black a long time ago and The Gate only for brunch. Must try both again sometime.